It’s the kind of dish that once you taste it, you never forget it. It’s the kind of dish that can turn a mushroom-hater (ahem, Alex) into a mushroom lover. It’s earth. It is sweetness. It is spicy, green and salt. Funghi assoluti—you’re the only one I want. In between my afternoon espresso and yet another re-run of Frasier, I took a trip…

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